In the 1970’s Federico Fellini, Giulietta Masina and Marcello Mastroianni all had their summer breaks in Fregene- or the Saint-Tropez of Latium. Originally a simple fishing village, it has now become, thanks to them, THE resort for Italian intellectuals and the ‘people’ of the age. Nowadays, Fellini and Mastroianni are no longer present, the glamour of La Dolce Vita has also left, but Fregene hasn’t stopped being a greatly prized destination for celebrities and the ‘golden youth’ of Rome who have adopted it for the very same reasons as 40 years ago: it’s just an hour from Rome and is far from the crowded beaches of Ostia.
The best way to explore Fregene is to hire a bike for around 10€ from Motociclo Batella (Number 171 Viale Nettuno). From here, dozens of beaches stretch out before your eyes, it’s just up to you to choose which one…The majority of the beaches belong to private clubs, the so-called ‘Stablimenti Balneari’ which often also include restaurants, swimming-pools, bars with terraces, as well as cabins and deckchairs for hire. All of them will assure you that Fellini was a frequent visitor!! The Capri Club, with its touches of Mediterranean luxury (Lungomare di Levante, 288) is one of the places to be seen in Fregene, you are bound to come across more than a few footballers here. For a more West-Coast USA vibe, check out Sogno del Mare (Lungomare di Ponente, 25), with its volleyball courts and surf-boards for rent.
As for restaurants, the Saint Tropez (Via Cesenatico and Lungomare di Levante) where the specialities include Liguine with prawns, tomatoes and courgettes is great. The ‘padrona’, Silvia Sari, a veritable mainstay of Fregene, will tell you all the anecdotes about the old stars. For two people including wine, you’re looking at about 80€ for the meal.
The start of the afternoon is the perfect time for pedalling through the near-empty streets of Fregene, since everybody is having a break for lunch, and reaching the pine-wood to the north of the village.
To the northern extremity of Via Silvi Marina, you will find Ondanomala, one of those types of shacks playing the latest music and serving pricey but extremely chic cocktails…Also, the wonderful view over the mountains to the north really takes the biscuit. When it’s time for a snack, take the pleasure of trying a delicious ‘gelato’ (ice-cream) on Viale Castellammare. And to finish off the day in style, the GIlda On the Beach club (Lungomare di Ponente, 11) is one of the most well-known discos in the area.
The best way of getting to Fregene are the blue regional buses, there are departures nearly every hour and the journey lasts 35 minutes. The terminal in Rome is just next to Cornelia metro stop, to the west of the Vatican City. Be advised to purchase your ticket beforehand, which costs about 2€ from tobacconists. Trains depart from Termini station, in the direction of Maccarese, and then a bus can carry you onwards to Fregene. One last word of advice: check the return times upon your arrival in Fregene to avoid bad surprises!
And if you wish to chill out in the capital, book a alloggio Roma, it’s the best way to benefit from your trip to the Italian capital.
For more information on appartamento Roma and hotel Roma, check out some of the online options.